FETES DE BAYONNE - Dancing in the Streets

With the festival officially opened, the wine flowed in city hall. I was so fortunate to be included and to witness the celebration of the people who work hard and long to make this festival a reality.

The festivities on the street were calling me though so I said good-bye to my hosts and ventured out into the street. I couldn't help but smile for the next several hours as I wandered through the crowds and enjoyed people enjoying themselves.









There was music everywhere, people were still singing, dancing and, for the younger ones at least, goofing off. And of course, the wine/beer flowed freely. While many seemed to be feeling no pain, I didn't see any really rowdy behavior and I stayed out wandering through the streets until close to 3 a.m. when the bars closed.

Of course, by that time, there were a few folks who had indulged too much and were paying the consequences.





This was my last night in Bayonne and it was quite a memorable one! I didn't really want it to end, but I kept telling myself that other adventures were coming.

Bon soir and au revoir, Bayonne!

FETES DE BAYONNE - Opening Ceremony

The anticipation has been building for this festival all over town...I can feel it wherever I go. I've been given a prized invitation to join the dignitaries from the city in the Hotel de Ville (city hall) to watch and photograph the opening ceremony which is held at 10 p.m. My very gracious hostess in Bayonne, Marie, came to get me at my hotel and escort me through the crowds and security and into the upper floor of the building.


There is a balcony from which the mayor officially opens the festival. It was very crowded and I was able to get to an office one floor up where I had a window all to myself and my camera.

My first view out to the plaza below was a bit of a shock...I KNEW there were a lot of people out there, but seeing them from my vantage point made my jaw drop! WOW...what a sight! It was REALLY exciting! The crowd was singing, dancing and generally having fun. Many of them did a wave-like dance to the live music coming from the stage set up for the occasion.


The sky grew dark and the time had arrived. The ceremony was mercifully short, King Leon, the mythical mascot of the Fetes, waved and the festivities had begun! Fireworks lit up the sky over the river and the cheering was deafening!

I was so glad I decided to stay for this event. It was a fantastic night...I still get goosebumps thinking of it!

FETES DE BAYONNE - Preparation

AMAZING!!! This town knows how to party!

The Fetes de Bayonne is a REALLY BIG festival that is held annually in Bayonne. It is the largest festival in France, attracting up to 1.5 million people over 5 days.

Workers have been setting up and city workers have been furiously cleaning up. I was amazed at how quickly the streets were cleaned of the debris left after yesterday's street sale, which didn't end until almost 9 p.m. Other workers hung "necessary" signs and put up fencing to protect the beautiful plantings along the roadways.

There are posters everywhere and shops are selling the traditional red and white garb which many people traditionally wear. I feel absolutely out of place in my basic black slacks. I WILL be wearing a white shirt and red foulard (scarf) tonight though. Even the statues on the top of city hall are wearing the traditional red scarf (I wonder who got that job)!




















There's already music and dancing in the streets and the opening isn't until tonight! Along with traditional Basque songs pouring out of the bars and restaurants, I also hear a lot of American Country & Western. I guess Willie Nelson can party with the best of them.

SALE in BAYONNE!!!

Wow! What an event! Bayonne has a street sale twice a year where vendors put up tents, haul out their merchandise and sell, sell, sell! My hotel room overlooks the street and I was awakened by the commotion outside. When I looked out, I couldn't believe what I saw...a continuous line of tents on both sides of the street! People were milling about, music was coming from somewhere down the street...and it was only 9 o'clock!

I ventured out into the street after breakfast and checked out what they had for sale.

It was quite different from similar sales in the U.S. There was much more in the way of women's clothing and accessories...and generally NICE stuff! There weren't that many jewelry vendors...not as many as I'd see in the States. I saw beautiful, unique umbrellas, made in France I was told, and lots of shoes. My daughter and granddaughter are really "into" shoes and would have loved the selection!

The vendors were all very friendly, even after they found I speak very little French.
Some of them waved me away saying "no photograph...no photograph", but most were gregarious enough to let me make their picture!

It was interesting to watch shoppers trying on clothing, haggling over price (even though in French, I got the message). The children were very cute too...either with big smiles when they got what they wanted...or pouts and tears when they didn't. Some things are the same all over.

I'm glad I braved the crowds and took in this event. I had no idea how much fun it would be until I got out there with so many French shoppers and experienced it for myself. I even picked up a few treasures along the way!

St Jean Pied de Port (Basque Village)

What a wonderful day!!! This village (the name means St Jean at the foot of the pass) is a point on the "Way of St James" which is a pilgrimage path to a cathedral in Northern Spain. It is the last stop before the tough climb through the Pyrenees. The town's shops are filled with hiking gear...backpacks, walking sticks, provisions.
Not being a hiker, I took in the natural beauty of the town. The river Nive, the same one that flows through Bayonne, runs through the town creating some picturesque views.











As with most French towns, there is large building (usually a chateau but now used as a citadel or school) at the highest point in town and, since St Jean is in the foothills of the Pyrenees, the highest point was quite a hike up for me.






Of course, there were many stopping points along the way. Lunch break was on a bench in the shade with the massive wall of the citadel at my back. Other stopping points were for "must have" photographs or just for gazing at the awesome views.





Just as I reached the summit, I heard a little "beep beep" behind me and turned to see the tram which had just brought tourists up from the town below. I could have saved myself some climbing, but would have missed out on the cool sheep mowing the Citadel lawns and then, later, napping against a stone wall.


Quite a few of the shopkeepers are technically savvy with websites showcasing their stores and their wares. I picked up quite a few business cards. On my way back, I took time to enjoy the shops, the vendors and the artists.














I ended my time in the town with a little meditative time in the Church of Notre Dame, the one that gives special blessings to the hikers. It was cool and peaceful inside. I enjoyed the quiet and reflected on what a beautiful and exciting place the world is and how lucky I am to get to experience so much of it.

More from The Tour

No...I didn't get to see the Tour again, I just thought I'd post a few more photos for all you cycling fans (I didn't realize there were so many of you). The team buses were colorful and huge and I thought it funny that they put up standards with those little ribbons...as if they'd keep the fans away. Once the riders finished the`stage and got to the bus.....down they went!







The huge screen kept fans up to date with how the cyclists were doing and people with exhibitionist tendencies amused those who were just out for a day of fun!


There was a "mini-Tour" for kids...boys and girls....which was quite a bit of fun to watch. The winners were rewarded with a floral presentation on the podium just like the "big boys".





And last, but not least...another couple of riders. I THINK one is Contador and the other Cadel Evans, but I'm not really sure. Anyone out there know???

Pau...Tour de France...Lance

I took a day, hopped on a train to Pau and caught the end of stage 16 of the Tour de France. After watching this race on TV for several years, I was NOT going to miss the opportunity to catch part of the excitement. Of course, anyone watching on TV saw it much better than I, however...I wanted to experience the excitement of being there!

Pau was a pleasant surprise...it's a beautiful city in the Pyrenees...sort of like a French version of San Francisco. Since I had to hike from the train station to the finish line (about a mile uphill), I really DID notice the hills...and the palm trees. I never expected to see palm trees in SF nor did I think I'd see them in the Pyrenees. It was 85 and sunny..hot for some...perfect for this Florida resident. Very nice town...complete with huge chateau and old French architecture. I'll have to visit when I have more time to spend.


The Tour area was a chaotic tangle of riders buses, commercial sponsor cars/trucks and assorted other strange vehicles, like funky looking water taxis spraying the crowds with a cooling light mist. Then, of course, there was the press with its motorcycles, cars, high flying cranes with seats for the camera people and helicopters.

Interspersed with all of this were the fans. Sponsors made good use of the waiting time to toss all sorts of promotional items to the masses. If you didn't happen to catch a freebie, there were plenty of booths selling their wares. There was also an enormous screen showing the race in progress. People seemed to enjoy watching and discussing the strategy of the riders with the nearest person who would listen...or understand. The many languages presented a few problems, but most were overcome rather well. The crowd was very friendly, regardless of language spoken.

It WAS an exciting day! Oh...and Lance sends his regards!

Bayonne.....Quelle Surprise!!!

Bayonne (Sister City to Daytona Beach) has turned out to be so much more than I expected! The fact that it's not very "touristy" is very, very refreshing to me. The shopping that's offered is varied with emphasis placed on everyday needs, women's accessories and food, especially chocolate (for good reason...more later)! Many of the shops are quite upscale.

The city is rich in tradition and history with two cathedrals of architectural interest along with ramparts (which originally surrounded the city) which have been incorporated into the new building going on around town. It has a full range of recreational activities. I was surprised to learn that there are at least eleven golf courses in the area...not to mention a broad beach with great waves for surfing!

Bayonne, FR - Staircases

My first tour in Bayonne was with a young man who only spoke a “leetle” English. Since I only speak a “leetle” French, we communicated minimally with words and the rest with gestures and body language. It worked out fine. I got to see a part of Bayonne that isn’t visible to most…the extensive renovation work that is going on inside of some very old and sometimes elegant, but all, very closed doors...also got to meet some of the local business owners. We HAD to stop for refreshment occasionally!










As near as I could understand from my guide, many 17th and 18th century buildings are being renovated in such a way as to create atrium like areas in the middle of the buildings. It wasn’t clear to me if this was originally one building or several, but I did understand that sometimes buildings or parts of buildings were demolished to create this open space. The unique feature is that the top or ceiling of the atrium is often glass…in essence a huge skylight and protection from the elements. In creating the open atrium space, the apartments are given light and a secure entry into their homes. Some of them even have enough space to create patio-like areas for some of the living spaces.

Apartments have been created in the buildings surrounding the open atrium, giving people the opportunity to live in the heart of the city. Entry into the atrium area is through one door which opens onto the street. A key pad is embedded in the door (with a little cover over it to preserve the look of the door) or attached to a side wall. Access is gained by entering a code which, I’m guessing, is only given to the residents.

We visited at least a dozen of these areas which, if my understanding is correct, are being financed by independent investors. The designs of the staircases in these areas are varied and, in many cases, quite beautiful. They range from a rugged and utilitarian look to elegant to ultra modern with many looks in between. I was fascinated with these hidden architectural structures and could have taken photos all day. They were complex and often difficult to photograph. The spirals made me dizzy enough to have to lean against walls or sit down to photograph.


It’s a great idea that is used in many cities to create secure living spaces for many people within the city, while still preserving the historic exterior look of the area. Plus it gave me a great opportunity see the city, to meet some friendly people and to photograph one of my favorite subjects…architecture!