FETES DE BAYONNE - Dancing in the Streets

With the festival officially opened, the wine flowed in city hall. I was so fortunate to be included and to witness the celebration of the people who work hard and long to make this festival a reality.

The festivities on the street were calling me though so I said good-bye to my hosts and ventured out into the street. I couldn't help but smile for the next several hours as I wandered through the crowds and enjoyed people enjoying themselves.









There was music everywhere, people were still singing, dancing and, for the younger ones at least, goofing off. And of course, the wine/beer flowed freely. While many seemed to be feeling no pain, I didn't see any really rowdy behavior and I stayed out wandering through the streets until close to 3 a.m. when the bars closed.

Of course, by that time, there were a few folks who had indulged too much and were paying the consequences.





This was my last night in Bayonne and it was quite a memorable one! I didn't really want it to end, but I kept telling myself that other adventures were coming.

Bon soir and au revoir, Bayonne!

FETES DE BAYONNE - Opening Ceremony

The anticipation has been building for this festival all over town...I can feel it wherever I go. I've been given a prized invitation to join the dignitaries from the city in the Hotel de Ville (city hall) to watch and photograph the opening ceremony which is held at 10 p.m. My very gracious hostess in Bayonne, Marie, came to get me at my hotel and escort me through the crowds and security and into the upper floor of the building.


There is a balcony from which the mayor officially opens the festival. It was very crowded and I was able to get to an office one floor up where I had a window all to myself and my camera.

My first view out to the plaza below was a bit of a shock...I KNEW there were a lot of people out there, but seeing them from my vantage point made my jaw drop! WOW...what a sight! It was REALLY exciting! The crowd was singing, dancing and generally having fun. Many of them did a wave-like dance to the live music coming from the stage set up for the occasion.


The sky grew dark and the time had arrived. The ceremony was mercifully short, King Leon, the mythical mascot of the Fetes, waved and the festivities had begun! Fireworks lit up the sky over the river and the cheering was deafening!

I was so glad I decided to stay for this event. It was a fantastic night...I still get goosebumps thinking of it!

FETES DE BAYONNE - Preparation

AMAZING!!! This town knows how to party!

The Fetes de Bayonne is a REALLY BIG festival that is held annually in Bayonne. It is the largest festival in France, attracting up to 1.5 million people over 5 days.

Workers have been setting up and city workers have been furiously cleaning up. I was amazed at how quickly the streets were cleaned of the debris left after yesterday's street sale, which didn't end until almost 9 p.m. Other workers hung "necessary" signs and put up fencing to protect the beautiful plantings along the roadways.

There are posters everywhere and shops are selling the traditional red and white garb which many people traditionally wear. I feel absolutely out of place in my basic black slacks. I WILL be wearing a white shirt and red foulard (scarf) tonight though. Even the statues on the top of city hall are wearing the traditional red scarf (I wonder who got that job)!




















There's already music and dancing in the streets and the opening isn't until tonight! Along with traditional Basque songs pouring out of the bars and restaurants, I also hear a lot of American Country & Western. I guess Willie Nelson can party with the best of them.

SALE in BAYONNE!!!

Wow! What an event! Bayonne has a street sale twice a year where vendors put up tents, haul out their merchandise and sell, sell, sell! My hotel room overlooks the street and I was awakened by the commotion outside. When I looked out, I couldn't believe what I saw...a continuous line of tents on both sides of the street! People were milling about, music was coming from somewhere down the street...and it was only 9 o'clock!

I ventured out into the street after breakfast and checked out what they had for sale.

It was quite different from similar sales in the U.S. There was much more in the way of women's clothing and accessories...and generally NICE stuff! There weren't that many jewelry vendors...not as many as I'd see in the States. I saw beautiful, unique umbrellas, made in France I was told, and lots of shoes. My daughter and granddaughter are really "into" shoes and would have loved the selection!

The vendors were all very friendly, even after they found I speak very little French.
Some of them waved me away saying "no photograph...no photograph", but most were gregarious enough to let me make their picture!

It was interesting to watch shoppers trying on clothing, haggling over price (even though in French, I got the message). The children were very cute too...either with big smiles when they got what they wanted...or pouts and tears when they didn't. Some things are the same all over.

I'm glad I braved the crowds and took in this event. I had no idea how much fun it would be until I got out there with so many French shoppers and experienced it for myself. I even picked up a few treasures along the way!

Bayonne.....Quelle Surprise!!!

Bayonne (Sister City to Daytona Beach) has turned out to be so much more than I expected! The fact that it's not very "touristy" is very, very refreshing to me. The shopping that's offered is varied with emphasis placed on everyday needs, women's accessories and food, especially chocolate (for good reason...more later)! Many of the shops are quite upscale.

The city is rich in tradition and history with two cathedrals of architectural interest along with ramparts (which originally surrounded the city) which have been incorporated into the new building going on around town. It has a full range of recreational activities. I was surprised to learn that there are at least eleven golf courses in the area...not to mention a broad beach with great waves for surfing!

Bayonne, FR - Staircases

My first tour in Bayonne was with a young man who only spoke a “leetle” English. Since I only speak a “leetle” French, we communicated minimally with words and the rest with gestures and body language. It worked out fine. I got to see a part of Bayonne that isn’t visible to most…the extensive renovation work that is going on inside of some very old and sometimes elegant, but all, very closed doors...also got to meet some of the local business owners. We HAD to stop for refreshment occasionally!










As near as I could understand from my guide, many 17th and 18th century buildings are being renovated in such a way as to create atrium like areas in the middle of the buildings. It wasn’t clear to me if this was originally one building or several, but I did understand that sometimes buildings or parts of buildings were demolished to create this open space. The unique feature is that the top or ceiling of the atrium is often glass…in essence a huge skylight and protection from the elements. In creating the open atrium space, the apartments are given light and a secure entry into their homes. Some of them even have enough space to create patio-like areas for some of the living spaces.

Apartments have been created in the buildings surrounding the open atrium, giving people the opportunity to live in the heart of the city. Entry into the atrium area is through one door which opens onto the street. A key pad is embedded in the door (with a little cover over it to preserve the look of the door) or attached to a side wall. Access is gained by entering a code which, I’m guessing, is only given to the residents.

We visited at least a dozen of these areas which, if my understanding is correct, are being financed by independent investors. The designs of the staircases in these areas are varied and, in many cases, quite beautiful. They range from a rugged and utilitarian look to elegant to ultra modern with many looks in between. I was fascinated with these hidden architectural structures and could have taken photos all day. They were complex and often difficult to photograph. The spirals made me dizzy enough to have to lean against walls or sit down to photograph.


It’s a great idea that is used in many cities to create secure living spaces for many people within the city, while still preserving the historic exterior look of the area. Plus it gave me a great opportunity see the city, to meet some friendly people and to photograph one of my favorite subjects…architecture!

BAYONNE..France, not New Jersey!

My first day in Bayonne was very, very hectic (8 hours of photography) and I'm still tired from the travel here, so pictures will come later. Just a couple of notes on this very engaging city...with more after a few days here.

I had no real expectations of Bayonne before I arrived, but I'm being surprised over and over by what it has to offer. First, it's a city divided by two rivers so there are many bridges and charming waterfronts. These areas actually remind me of Amsterdam where buildings facing the water are very narrow with only a road in front separating them from the water. Most of the buildings are typically French architecture and there are many winding, narrow streets...fun to stroll...sort of like a mini-Paris without all the hustle and bustle.

The city is on a major campaign to clean up so there are quite a few scaffolds around the more prominent cathedrals and public buildings. There seems to be a program to renovate and restore the buildings from the 17 and 1800's and turn them into unique, modern apartment homes. More on that later too.

So far, I'm finding Bayonne to be a clean, charming and interesting town...and I haven't been to the beach yet!

OK! I decided to sneak a photo in...

French Adventure...Day 1

The plane ride was ordinary and, before I knew it, the pilot was announcing our descent into Paris. I pushed the window shade up and looked out. A soft, serene sea of lavender blue became visible. Far below were tiny sparkles of light struggling to show themselves through the vast sea of pre-dawn haze. It was lovely.

The plane twisted and turned on its approach to CDG airport and, at every turn, new lights came into view, the sea of blue lightened and the sun pushed up toward the horizon. I searched for the Eiffel Tower with no success, however, on final approach and just before landing, the gleaming white crown of the Sacre Coeur cathedral appeared. The plane touched down, the sun broke the horizon and I was in Paris.

Paris was to be short-lived since catching the train OUT of town was the first order of business. Rail travel is new to me and it was an adventure in itself with my limited use of French. However, I DID make it to the train ontime and settled down for a 5 hour ride to Bayonne, my destination and home for the next week.

Due to lack of forethought on my part, I did not have my camera available for a major part of the trip since we passed through some very beautiful country. It wasn't until we started passing the sunflower fields that I started kicking myself for not having access to the camera! They were glorious...an ocean of yellow as far as the eye could see! Sigh. I guess I have to come back this way with a car.

Arrival in Bayonne was on time and I found myself in my hotel in the historic district within 22 hours of leaving home. Since sleep on train and plane was minimal, I went to bed...but not before snapping a photo out of my hotel window! What a treat...hotel windows that open onto a pretty street scene below.